Author: Chris Wall Photography: Jeff Cloud
Translator: Frank Xie()
Translator's Note: (The original Smart Muscle Part Two: Antagonist and Synergists was published at http://,
The original author's point of view does not represent the translator's point of view. The translator only faithfully translates the original text. This article is intended for rock climbing enthusiasts only. If you need to reprint, please fully reproduce and indicate the source so that we can better understand this article! )
Rock climbers who perform strength training often beat muscles. They think that this can directly increase the performance of muscles, but they use short cuts to train muscle groups. In order for us to climb better and avoid injuries, we need a more stable approach to achieve. Anti-muscular and co-muscular (united with muscle) group of stable connection and direct control of certain types of climbing action (for example). (Like mantels and shoulder-intensive gastons). Although these muscles perform different functions than those of contracting muscles, without them, you cannot move at all.
Away from the pain: Like the first part of this article, we introduce several actions that are usually safe and effective, but not necessarily suitable for all people. Even if your training moves correctly, it may be due to muscle fatigue. If this happens, do not do this. An experienced coach or qualified personal trainer can help you find safe alternatives. Good training skills are very important. If you want to harvest, you must exercise strength training on the muscle groups that you need to train. If you let other muscles do, you will not achieve the desired goal - but this is only the best result. The worse the result is muscle. Injury, the worst is the delay in normal rock climbing training.
Develop training schedules: Although some people like to separate the training of the contracting muscles and the training of the opposing muscles/cooperative muscle groups, I still recommend that they be integrated into one training session. Because you only make five groups for each action, you don't have to be very tired, so you can train both the contracted and counter-muscle/cooperative muscle groups in an hour or even half an hour.
At the beginning of training, you will do the most complex actions (these actions will use most of the joints), then reduce the difficulty, and finally do the simplest action. I find that alternating push and pull movements work best. Here's an example of an alternate exercise for reference:
Contraction muscle action/anti-muscle action (each two groups)
Standing Lift Practice/Overtrain Practice (two groups)
One-arm pull-down exercise / lying dumbbell lifting exercises (each two groups)
Single Arm Sitting Rowing Exercise/Side Shoulder Lifting Exercise (2 groups)
Tie rod exercises / forward shoulder lift exercises (two groups)
Shoulder rotation exercises/bending wrist exercises (two groups)
Reverse Bending Wrist Exercise/Finger Curl Exercise (two groups)
If your progress is reflected in a particular action, try adding an additional group. The entire process may last from one hour fifteen minutes to two hours depending on how busy you are in the gym. If you don't have a lot of time for training, you can divide it into two parts, morning and evening, or do a few short exercises within a few days. Be sure to schedule your time and spend at least two full days a week for rest. After the first three-week strength training, you should take a week of concentrated training techniques - after a special break, you will be very surprised at your changes. At the beginning you may have to endure some pain, as well as when climbing. But keep in mind that once your body adjusts, you will climb better than before. If you just started training, you will increase the weight of training every week, and muscle changes begin to appear. In a few months, your progress will slow down. In the end, you may take weeks or months to get some small progress, but then you have a solid and strong foundation. At that time, it will be the best time for you to stay away from equipment training for a few months.
Ladd (Translator's Note: 1811-1816 British craft workers involved in the destruction of machinery, hinders technological advancement of people) logic: through free weights (Translator's Note: such as dumbbells) practice and fitness machines, that Which way is better? For healthy individuals, the answer may be the former. Some actions (such as single-arm sitting rowing and single-arm pull-down) are easy to accomplish using the equipment, but using free weights in general is better than using bright, large-footprint instruments. Training results and more effective in preventing injuries. This is because the instrument dictates movement on only one plane, so it only stimulates the target muscle group. And when you use free weights, not only does the target muscle group get exercised, but the small supporting muscles around it are also called to help stabilize the movement. For example, if the pectoral muscle is a training target, then exercise can be achieved by means of an instrument or prone dumbbell lifting exercises, and the latter can better stimulate the support muscles of the arms, shoulders, and upper back. Because rock climbing requires the power to complete a wide range of movements, even if you can push or pull a heavy weight in one direction, it is not as important as good joint stability and strength. The disadvantage of using free weight training is that it is easy to bury small muscle groups, especially when you haven't mastered the training skills. Another disadvantage is that when you use free weights to train too much too quickly, the pain will linger you for a month, while the training on the device will generally end in pain for a few days. Use prudent free weights to train, especially at the beginning of training, it will help you get the progress and gains you deserve more than those expensive instruments.
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